Tuesday, February 11, 2025

Of Acadie

"This is the forest primeval.

The murmuring pines and hemlocks,
Bearded with moss, and in garments green, indistinct in the twilight,
Stand like Druids of eld, with voices sad prophetic,
Stand like Harper's hoar, with beards that rest on their bosoms.
Loud from its rocky caverns, the deep-voiced neighboring ocean
Speaks, and in accents disconsolate answers the wail of the forest."

-- Henry W. Longfellow



I was finally content where I was, but I had already pledged to move on. I accepted the Acadia job offer, the temporary ranger position, lined up grad school for the fall, and received notice of my first poetry publication all in the same week. 

I hope to never have a week so busy ever again. My longest winter was over, the grief blasted away with explosions of activity.

I bid goodbye to the high-elevation red spruce ecosystem I had come to love so. I was off to the northern seashore, and I did not expect to see such a forest until I returned. I knew nothing about Maine, only that it was far away and romantic.

I started reading "Evangeline of Acadie." I had stumbled upon a slim, hardback copy in McKay's while visiting my cousin Isabelle in Tennessee: a cream-colored volume with a green spine and gold lettering. I had never heard of it, but here was an epic poem about a girl in the land I was about to visit. On the first page was a description of "the forest primeval." I was transported back to long nights on Cabin Mountain, bone weary from salamander surveys, but full of the heavy peace that hangs from the gnarled branches like a benediction. I lay on a thick mattress of moss of deepest green, smelling the decay of damp logs, looking up at spruce-curtained stars in their cloak of silence. Would I find such a place in Maine, too?

I would.



Longfellow knew his stuff. The spruce forest I recognized in his poetry greeted me with open arms as I turned onto Schoodic Loop Drive and cruised along the coast. The sprawling spruce crept all the way up to the bare rocks of the shore-- I had never seen such a thing. I arrived at sunset to a world of rocky cliffs and crashing waves bathed in slanting golden light. I saw a lighthouse on a tiny island, a rainbow of hundreds of little bobbing buoys I would later learn marked lobster traps, massive birds of prey swooping overhead, but not another soul for miles. I felt alone in this new forest primeval, but it was a good solitude. I felt like an explorer.

"How lucky I am."

The place I was to work was an old navy base, and my housing was old navy family housing. I would share a four-bedroom, one-bathroom rowhouse with three other girls. My own! Room! I could have had my own toilet and sink, too-- I was first to move in and could have chosen the master suite-- but I opted for the room with the most sunlight for my plants. We had a mossy backyard with trees and a picnic table, and the sea was barely a stone's throw away. I would walk down to it every night of my term, knowing I would probably never live anywhere oceanfront again.

How special to have the ocean so near after living in a land-locked state.

After cleaning, unpacking, and grocery shopping, I spent my first day exploring. I packed a lunch and a map and set off on foot from my little house. I watched the waves on Schoodic Point. I clambered over rocks at Blueberry Hill. I climbed to Schoodic Head. I found the only shady spot on the bald point and ate an apple while I finished Evangeline of Acadie.



I would learn that week that I had beaten more than 150 applicants for this position.

How lucky I was.




Friday, January 24, 2025

Ranger Rebecca (Huh?)

 "Zoe is leaving in two weeks. Is there anyway you could fill in?"

I wasn't completely blindsided. I'd suspected this was coming. I was already helping Zoe by working the visitor center occasionally, helping with storytime, writing posts for the refuge Facebook, and had lead an interp walk. She also helped with biology surveys and maintenance projects when we needed it. That's just what you do with a small refuge staff and 20,000 acres to take care of.

The federal government is slow. Zoe was a top-notch AmeriCorps ranger and they wanted her to stay, so they made it an official federal position-- but they hadn't started the hiring process in time. By the time it got certified and the application was out, she'd already applied and been accepted elsewhere because they couldn't promise her the position in time. Girl had bills to pay.

It would be months before they could hire someone new to the system, so they asked me. My term ended mid-February, and my next job didn't start until May. Could I fill in as long as I could? Just hold down the fort?

I'm not a people person or a good public speaker and I give shit directions. But if I couldn't do it, the visitor center and programs they'd worked so hard to improve since 2020 would shut down; storytime and the local wild school program that brought kids in my community close to nature wouldn't happen; the bookstore wouldn't bring in any money to pay for next year's AmeriCorps interns. It would be nice to have a steady paycheck for three more months, and I wasn't in any hurry to move back in with my parents.

And thus I became a Park Ranger for the US Fish and Wildlife Service. (The interpretive kind, not the law enforcement kind.)

No, I didn't get to wear the hat. It was just me and my ACE shirt and cargo pants, like always.

Zoe trained me before she left. We went on long drives together stocking all the trailhead kiosks with maps and putting up flyers she designed to advertise interpretive walks around the little neighboring towns. It was deep midwinter in ski country, and we passed rich tourists from DC and camouflage-clad locals alike on the dirty, snow-piled streets to the post offices, coffee shops, and visitor information centers. We trundled down the icy gravel roads in our little government Jeep, checking off to-do lists as fast as we could before her last day.

I led storytime with the kindergarteners under her watch. I drafted emails and scheduled wild school visits. She made sure I knew where all the supplies were and who to contact about what and what was in all her files left behind on the P-drive. She introduced me to the Environmental Education volunteers (a much less rugged group than the biology volunteers.) One was a retired National Park Service employee who would teach me so much about the field that winter.


And then Zoe was gone, and I stepped into her big ranger boots until May.






I wrangled and corralled volunteers, pulled off a whole wild school program with six school visits and a field trip, researched and wrote a repertoire of new interpretive walks, managed the visitor center every day, kept the website and Facebook up-to-date, and wrote down as much as I could to help the future ranger who wouldn't have Zoe to train them.

And of course, I still made time to help with biology surveys.

For those three months, my family was correct in telling everyone I was a park ranger. (They already had been and would continue to tell people that's what I do.)

Thursday, January 23, 2025

Grad School? Grad School.

 "You shouldn't go to grad school just because you don't know what to do next."

Yeah, okay. Sure. I know that, intellectually. It's partially why I took a whole gap year after grad school instead of working as a summer tech and leaping back into school in the fall. I didn't know if working in biology was really what I wanted to do. Could it just be another fleeting daydream? I needed to stick it out and see.

"The world is dying and I hate my body. Maybe I should go to grad school." -- Ben Lapidus

I decided, after my first field season, that I did want to work in biology permanently. I spoke to and observed experts in the field and knew I would need a master's degree to get a permanent job. I'm good at school. I knew I could do it. I just wasn't sure when. It would be fun to do some more seasonal work, travel the country, wait to put down roots.

But several factors pushed me to go ahead and get it done. First, two of the AmeriCorps I was working with decided to do go back for a master's themselves that year. Senate Bill 228 was a new initiative in West Virginia-- if you did so many AmeriCorps service terms in the state, then you could get so many semesters of free tuition at any public university in the state. It would be good to have friends going through the same things I was. Second, I was turning 23, and I knew I'd get booted off my parents' health insurance at 26. Might as well do it now while I don't have to pay for my own health insurance. Third, my grandparents were getting older. They let me live with them for free in undergrad, and I was sure they'd let me do it again for grad school. If I could get into a lab at my alma mater right then, I wouldn't have to worry about paying rent, either.

Fourth-- the embarrassing one-- I'd just had my heart ripped out and thrown on the fucking floor by a little rat man with a receding hairline. I could grieve and be miserable while working more temporary tech jobs, or I could grieve and be miserable while earning a master's degree (which I was told would make me miserable anyway.) It's certainly stupid to start a master's program out of spite for a man... but it wasn't my only reason.

I learned a lot of things about grad school from other biologists, but the main two were:

1) your advisor makes or breaks your grad school experience

and 2) they should be funding you to do research, not making you pay tuition. If a STEM graduate program ever tries to make you pay for your degree out of pocket, you should run like hell. So Senate Bill 228 is a nice thought, but it's for people pursuing an M.A. (classes) rather than an M.S. (research.)

I set up a meeting with my old undergraduate mentor, Pam. She was thrilled at the prospect of having me back in the lab. We met over Teams to go over details. She had funding for me and let me know much I would be making, paperwork and expectations for master's students, and graduate teaching position opportunities. She detailed the master's projects she had available for me to work on.

She had a project using DNA to study plant-pollinator interactions, and that one sparked my interest. When she went more in-depth on that one, I was sold. I got off the call and walked to the conference room, where my boss and one of my AmeriCorps friends were talking about her master's plans. "I'm going to study bees at Marshall!"